Tux 101

Alright, boys- it’s that time. A decent internet search yielded me the most bizarre, non-traditional, unstylish tutorials on tux rental and purchase for the big day; it was fright night. Our clients ask us all the time about the “deets”- so here they are. Whether renting or buying custom, try to follow the nuances below for the best look possible.

To preserve the ongoing fight to see men dressed just as meticulously for their big day as the ladies, I’ve listed out what I personally believe is preppy, traditional, Southern, classic, and Bond-influenced, k? Think Tom Ford for Gucci, not P. Diddy.

Jackets

Peak, notch, and shawl are your choices.

Peak: too biiiig pimpin’. They form a big fat v (see below).

Notch are simple and fine- they have a notch cut out of the lapel and a lapel button hole as well (handy for bouts).

Shawl are my fave- so impossibly debonair and almost always what you see on Clooney, Damon, Brosnan, and the like.

Note: lapels should always be in satin. Also, buttons:  typically you see one-button shawl, two-button shawl, one-button notch, two-button notch, and so forth. I prefer one button where possible, which isn’t alway the case with rental tuxes. Three button or double-breasted is typically fattening and Eurotrash. There, I said it.

Brad’s tux is just ridiculous (-ly ugly).

The rule to remember is: “always, sometimes, never”. Always button the top button of your tux shirt before you tie the bowtie. Sometimes button the top button of your 2-button jacket (when being formal/standing for pictures). Never button the bottom button of any jacket, whether it’s 2-button or more.

Shirts/Collars/Cuffs:

Shirt fronts: I love the covered placket Bond tux shirt. I also love  classic plain front tux shirt with zero buttons so you can use studs. Rental tux shirts will often come with buttons that can be hidden with studs (do it). I’m not a big fan of the pleated-front shirt, as I think it’s a little dated.

Collars can either be wing tip (so Eighties) . . .

lay-down (Thomas Pink, Hugo Boss, Brooks Brothers – Brad, George, Matt) . . .

or Mandarin (clearly, no). So we vote for lay-down. You’ll also see a “spread” lay-down, much like you see in business dress . . . veers from the traditional, so nix.

Cuffs- you want French vs. barrel, and you want about 1/2 inch to 2/3 inch showing at any point when the arm is straight or bent. If you bend your arm and your cuff recedes past view, it’s too short.

Of course, this is waaaaay too much cuff:

Pants:

Pleated front is classic and traditional, as is the satin stripe down the side. They should never be cuffed, nor have a skinny leg or weird break. They don’t have belt loops. If hemming, ask for a “big break” over the shoe.

Shoes:

Yes, you have to wear the shiny black patent kind, lace-up of course. If you like a cap toe or spectator detail, I’m not gonna fight you….but I WILL fight you on wearing your own black leather day-to-day shoes. N-O.

Bowties:

Self-tie bowtie, or bust. If you don’t have a team like ours to tie all of yours with panache, then ask your best man to watch this video.

Never, ever wear the pre-tied “clip-on”. The tux rental houses will claim they can’t get the self-tie kind: fyi, they totally can. Just be pushy.

Good:

Bad:

Cummerbunds vs. Vests

Vests are Jersey Shore. Cummerbunds are the way to go. Wear them facing upward, so the pleats can “catch crumbs”, hold “calling cards”, and hold “opera tickets”. Old School.

Accessories:

Most tux jackets have a pocket for a handkerchief. If you’re metro and pretty dapper, you can rock it. If not, leave it empty.

Calder’s top tips:

1. Get a haircut and a close shave. Simple, right?

2. Buy or rent 2 shirts so you can not only have a backup in case of mishaps but have a fresh change before you leave your wedding. (All of our grooms swap their sweat-soaked duds for fresh ones right before they head out).

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